This September, Milanese jeweller Pomellato opens its first-ever solo exhibition devoted to the provocative lens of Helmut Newton. Pomellato, Helmut Newton & the 80s runs from 18 September to six October at Omotesando Crossing Park in Tokyo, spotlighting the novel campaigns that redefined each jewelry and femininity within the early ’80s.
At a time when jewelry promoting leaned closely on conference, Pomellato broke ranks. Collaborating with Newton from 1982 to 1984, the maison offered girls not as decorative figures however as protagonists—sporting chains, bangles and cascades of gems with an autonomy that mirrored shifting cultural tides. In stark black-and-white, Newton’s heroines lounged in bars, tossed necklaces throughout tables and claimed area with an unapologetic glamour that also feels electrical at this time.
“Helmut by no means requested me to be stunning—he requested me to be actual,” remembers mannequin Arielle Burgelin Dehugo, who fronted the 1984 marketing campaign. That rawness, paired with Pomellato’s goldsmithing savoir faire—its signature Gourmette and Gate-link chains, and the woven Tessute items that flowed like material—turned the pictures into manifestos of liberation as a lot as commercials.
Sabina Belli, CEO of Pomellato Group, calls the collaboration “a visible declaration of independence,” one which crystallised the maison’s ethos of progressive design and feminine empowerment. “Newton portrayed the Pomellato lady with such stunning, difficult non-conformity. Newton was uniquely able to representing not simply the glamour of this golden age, however the profound societal change occurring in girls’s lives—creating visible manifestos of liberation that stay as highly effective at this time as once they first shocked and delighted the world.”
On the exhibition, the campaigns may even be displayed alongside archival jewels, proving that they’re much less a nostalgic look again than a residing reminder that model is political, and jewelry—when worn with intent—could be armour as a lot as adornment.
Pomellato, Helmut Newton & the 80s runs from 18 September to six October 2025 at Omotesando Crossing Park, Tokyo. Admission is free, by appointment solely.
This text was first seen on Grace sg.
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