A New Milestone for Patek Philippe’s Modern Women’ Timepieces

Once we first wrote up the Patek Philippe Ref. 7340/1R for the Imaginative and prescient difficulty this yr, it was a no brainer: Patek Philippe debuts its first excessive complication – or grand complication because the model phrases it – within the Twenty~4 assortment. Simply seven years in the past, this fashionable girls’ watch household was all quartz, and in a particular form; then a spherical computerized mannequin debuted and we needed to surprise if the Genevan model would lastly elevate up this household with a complication. Ref. 7340, as we’ll check with it, is the reply to that query. In fact, on reflection, that is maybe completely consistent with Patek Philippe’s plans, even earlier than the automated mannequin in 2018.

To know, we’ve to journey a little bit additional again, to a discontinued mannequin known as the Women First Chronograph Ref. 7071R. That watch represented a sea change at Patek Philippe and was thought to be a cheeky transfer method again in 2009, largely as a result of this was the debut of Patek Philippe’s new manufacture chronograph motion. For many who don’t keep in mind this, it actually did imply that males who didn’t like the concept of shopping for a girls mannequin for themselves must sit out the primary look of calibre CH 29-535 PS. To be clear, it’s value remembering that in 2009, nobody was actually speaking about unisex watches as an actual phenomenon, and Ref. 7071R launched with diamonds (136 spherical ones on the dial flange). In different phrases, there was little question about what the watch was and who it was for, as if the identify Women First Chronograph didn’t give it away.

DIFFERENT STROKES

With the raft of releases this yr together with notably restrained girls’s watches – the Twenty~4 shouldn’t be a unisex assortment – in addition to the Cubitus Ref. 7128 (in two variants), it could be tempting to learn one thing concerning the function of valuable gems right here. When one consists of watches corresponding to Ref. 4946 and even the equally sized Ref. 6196, the notion that the manufacture needs to supply sober watches to girls good points floor. Nevertheless, not solely has this been taking place for awhile – and we’ve not even introduced Ref. 7040 and Ref. 7130 into it – however Patek Philippe actually recognises the artisanal worth of gemsetting in conventional watchmaking. Look to this yr’s Ref. 5811/1460 and Ref. 7010G for proof.

In fact, the purpose is that there are different types of watches for various tastes, and a Patek Philippe perpetual calendar needn’t be enriched with diamonds to attraction to girls. Now right here, there’s something of a relationship with Ref. 7071R as a result of the brand new Ref. 7340 might have gone the identical method however didn’t. The result’s a watch that’s much more inclusive and open, whereas additionally bearing the excellence of being first in additional than only one method. Ref. 7340 is the additionally the primary spherical Twenty~4 watch with out a gem-set bezel. Whereas we welcome this, we revise our earlier evaluation that the watch represents a “feminine collector prioritising substance over sparkle, and heritage over novelty.” There will not be any priorities right here, until it pertains to making the wealth of watchmaking’s attraction extra obvious. This is the reason the easy three-hander is the preferred conventional watch of all, however we’re getting forward of ourselves.

COMPLICATED AESTHETICS

Since we’ve lined Ref. 7340 at size, allow us to spare a couple of phrases to revisit the fundamentals, and a few particulars. Appearing on all fronts of the 36mm Ref. 7340/1R is the ultra-thin self-winding calibre 240 Q, the identical motion behind a few of Patek Philippe’s grand complication perpetual calendars. This in fact signifies that we’re continuity within the grand complication space, and a modular calibre whose virtues are properly recognised. Regardless of measuring a svelte 3.88mm, the 275-component calibre with a 48-hour energy reserve drives an entire perpetual calendar show that requires no handbook correction till 2100.

Though the calibre right here is actually what makes the watch work, it’s also an announcement: in an excellent watch, complexity is the draw, and it may possibly inform aesthetics. With its a number of subdials, the Patek Philippe perpetual calendar does present fairly a whimsical face to the world. Gemsetting might add worth right here but it surely needs to be commensurate with the virtues of a storied calibre corresponding to 240 Q. Once more, think about Ref. 5811 and Ref. 7010 for good measure. Bringing in Ref. 4946 seals the deal for this story – right here too, the aesthetic worth is provided by the subdials of the annual calendar complication.

TEXTURED APPEAL

On a remaining notice about Ref. 7340, there are two dial variations in play however each fashions are in rose gold, with matching bracelets. The 7340/1R-001 sports activities a silvery dial with vertical and horizontal satin-brushed ending that resembles shantung (or Shandong) silk’s distinctive woven texture. Suffice to say that footage don’t do that form of textured dial any favours; see it in individual in the event you can. The second possibility, Ref. 7340/1R-010, is maybe extra consistent with developments as a result of the dial is sunburst olive inexperienced dial. Nevertheless one feels about that, the colourway fits rose gold and won’t disappoint, though we stay extra satisfied by the shantung model.

To shut, we return to the attraction of the three-hander, which for our functions listed below are the 2 variations of Ref. 7128. Not like the Twenty~4, these will not be particularly watches for girls, simply smaller variations – Ref. 5821 debuted in 2024 as a 45mm actually sq. watch, and two new references (7128/1G and 7128/1R) are 40mm. The big and “medium-sized,” as Patek Philippe describes the brand new watches, are each powered by the identical calibre, the automated 26-330 S C. This has the odd impact of demonstrating that this motion is extra at dwelling on this very modest case dimension. Definitely, 40mm shouldn’t be small and the true distinction is the area between the central hyperlinks, high to backside. That is actually what makes the 45mm model put on giant.

The underside line, in fact, is that the watches ostensibly pitched to girls within the Patek Philippe vary this yr are actually good for anybody with the precise form of wrist. Taken as an entire, they signify an attraction geared toward girls preferring extra sobriety of their watches. Or they may simply be nice watches for anybody with good style. That may be a place we will get behind.

This story was first seen as a part of the WOW Legacy 2025 Problem

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