With the BLANCPAIN FIFTY FATHOMS Automated 38mm, the model has lastly given us the extra restrained dive watch the group has been hankering for for the reason that mannequin returned to the fold in 2003. Since that point, Blancpain has heard from us all that we wished a extra compact model of the Fifty Fathoms, certainly one of two claimants to the title of “world’s first dive watch.” Sticking to its weapons, Blancpain maintained that the Fifty Fathoms mannequin was made for professionals in 1953 and thus couldn’t be smaller than its 45mm measurement. In fact, that unique mannequin was 41mm, so…
Barring some restricted editions through the years, Blancpain has by no means given any indication that it might ever yield to persistent requests for a smaller diver. Even for girls, who’re an essential a part of the diving world. Nicely, we will all cease our bellyaching, as they are saying, as a result of there may be now a slew of Fifty Fathoms Automatique fashions to fulfill these constant requests, and they’re 38.2mm, to be exact. Now, we have now to say that this was a little bit of a wink-and-a-nod form of drop from the model, with the primary two 38.2mm releases final week wanting like standalone information. We wrote this whole story (for essentially the most half) with out realizing that extra watches had been on the way in which… One clue that extra fashions had been certainly coming was that the Web reacted slowly, uncharacteristically, and the press website was wobbly.
On these two girls’ fashions revealed first, might both of those ostensibly made-for-her watches enchantment to males? That’s right down to style, in fact, however – for the Singapore viewers – we predict certainly one of these fashions can be good for SG60…
Anyway, if we’re being sincere, we predict {most professional} commentators (ourselves included) by no means thought the day would come when there can be a Fifty Fathoms mannequin smaller than 40mm… and the smallest watch within the vary is 42mm, with something smaller (whats up Hodinkee!) being restricted to very particular runs. Certainly, the existence of the Bathyscaphe line, which does provide extra restrained proportions, appeared to render questions on smaller Fifty Fathoms choices moot. Such solutions appear downright churlish, it could possibly be argued. In any case, the Bathyscaphe is sort of a wonderful dive watch in its personal proper; nonetheless, it’s not the Fifty Fathoms.
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is a proper correct icon and, if it’s your flavour of dive watch, nothing can substitute it. That is what all dive watches descend from- it’s an Ur kind that precedes ISO requirements. In some ways, the unique Fifty Fathoms set the usual, or predicted them, should you want. Which means its kind and character are sacrosanct, and but… Blancpain itself has altered the watch from the 1953 unique.
Nobody imagines that even the 2003 modern Fifty Fathoms was a reproduction, nor the 2007 model that heralded the return of the watch to the common assortment. Blancpain doesn’t do replicas, and neither does any watchmaking model that invests in its personal id.
Earlier than we go additional, although, an precise introduction is known as for, and we will organise by order of launch. What we have now first, then, are the 2 girls’ automated 38.2mm dive watches, one in purple gold and one in brushed grade 23 titanium – Ref. 5007 3644A and Ref. 5007 12B44R, respectively. Each are 12mm thick, so nothing extraordinary there and are powered by the identical automated Calibre 1153, which boasts 100 hours of energy reserve however isn’t chronometer licensed. Water-resistance is 300 metres and Blancpain has in fact not shorted us on an exhibition caseback.
The titanium mannequin has a pink dégradé mother-of-pearl dial, whereas the purple gold watch sports activities a black dégradé mother-of-pearl dial. Blancpain calls these colors petal pink and smoky black. The titanium mannequin particularly leans into pink very closely, as you may see.
Becoming a member of these two early birds are three formally “genderless,” fashions, all sharing the identical measurement and the identical Calibre 1153. These are Ref. 5007 1130 71S (polished metal with black dial and bezel); Ref. 5007 12B40 98S (satin brushed grade 23 titanium with blue dial and bezel); and Ref. 5007 36B40 O52B (purple gold with blue dial and bezel, this one with sail fabric strap).
Intriguingly, all 38.2mm fashions are sans date, which is a primary for the Fifty Fathoms assortment. Whereas that transfer could also be lauded by essentially the most peevish of the date window debaters, the identical could not maintain true for the horn spacing for all 38.2mm fashions, which is 19mm. That is completely different to the 42mm fashions (21.5mm) and the 45mm fashions (23mm); this has implications for individuals who prefer to swap out straps regularly and must be famous.
All fashions share the everyday Fifty Fathoms numerals, hour markers, palms and bezels, so they appear very comparable when seen in a list or on the web site. Simply as with the lug hole, there could be refined variations that can solely current themselves when the watches are examined bodily. An actual battle would possibly emerge between the 2 purple gold fashions, that are differentiated by dial and bezel solely.
Not having worn these watches in any kind, prototypes or in any other case, it’s troublesome to evaluate them relative to anything. It could be that the stability can be barely off or simply proper, however we are going to hazard a guess that the match over a wetsuit could be lower than optimum. It must be apparent from the look of the watches that these newest propositions are leisure instruments, not skilled ones.
And that leaves us with the concept that is meant to be a second watch, or the first watch of an individual who doesn’t use it for diving. On that be aware, the brand engraved on the case flank stays in place within the 38.2mm mannequin, and this, too, is a function that’s a lot mentioned. It’s in all probability good that the gathering holds onto extra parts of its shared id – it didn’t happen to us to even ask after the flank brand initially.
We shut this primary look (at photos and specs) with a message from Marc A. Hayek, President and CEO of Blancpain (which was included within the press info and is sort of scrumptious): “The Fifty Fathoms is way more than a diver’s watch, it’s an emblem of exploration and innovation. With the addition of latest fashions, we’re responding to a transparent demand whereas reaffirming that this assortment was at all times meant for all wrists. It’s a pure and essential evolution for a watch born underwater, made to be worn anyplace.”
This story was first seen as a part of the WOW #79 Summer time 2025 Challenge
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