Unveiled in Taormina, Sicily, simply final week, Bvlgari’s newest excessive jewelry providing, Polychroma, locations color on the centre of its artistic imaginative and prescient this 12 months—each actually and conceptually. The identify itself is a intelligent portmanteau: “poly” for a lot of, “chroma” for color, and a delicate nod to “Roma,” the model’s residence. For Lucia Silvestri, Bvlgari’s artistic director of excessive jewelry, it was the proper start line for a group that leans into daring combos, uncommon gem stones, and design-led craftsmanship. On this dialog, Silvestri walks us by means of the pondering behind the designs, the challenges of working with extraordinary stones and why jewelry needs to be worn with ease and character.
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Pakkee Tan (PK): I maintain going again to the fantastic play on phrases on this assortment. What was the place to begin for Polychroma for you?
Lucia Silvestri (LS): First, we thought in regards to the theme of the gathering, in fact. After I heard the theme was Polychroma—“poly” which means many, “chroma” which means colors, and “Roma” on the finish—I believed it was sensible. The thought of starting with color actually resonated with me. We at all times work with color, however for this assortment, we positioned much more emphasis on it.
PK: Did you’re employed with any historic or inventive references whereas designing Polychroma?
LS: Historic references? Not precisely. We did take a look at the archives for inspiration, however we weren’t making an attempt to copy something particular. One necessary lesson I discovered from Mr Bulgari was: “Don’t copy your self.”
PK: There are some really gorgeous items on this assortment. Might you stroll us by means of just a few of your favourites?
LS: It’s very tough to select a favorite—I like all of them! These items are like my kids. However I can share one…
PK: Ah, the Cosmic Vault necklace.
LS: Within the gallery, now we have what we name the 5 Wonders—5 distinctive jewels. Every was a problem, when it comes to the stones, the craftsmanship, and the design. We wished to shock individuals with these extraordinary artistic endeavors. It’s not simply Bvlgari, not simply gem stones—it’s design and craftsmanship coming collectively.
As an illustration, there’s a 123-carat sapphire from Sri Lanka. My dream was to discover a sapphire bigger than the 66-carat one Elizabeth Taylor had in her necklace—particularly, a sugarloaf minimize that was even greater. Lastly, I discovered it, and we started designing round it. We took inspiration from a brocade curtain we noticed in Venice. You possibly can’t see the again of the necklace right here, however it’s magnificent.
PK: What was the biggest stone you labored with on this assortment? Any explicit challenges?
LS: The most important is a 241-carat emerald—the most important faceted emerald Bvlgari has ever used. Beforehand, we mounted a 300-carat cabochon, however this one is faceted. It’s extraordinary in color, transparency, and minimize—really one among a sort. The thought was to focus all consideration on the stone, with out shedding Bvlgari’s distinctive design contact. We saved the setting geometric, virtually Artwork Deco, however easy and fashionable. You continue to see the necklace, however the emerald instructions all the eye.
PK: Was it difficult to work with an emerald of this measurement?
LS: Completely. Emeralds are delicate. We went by means of many sketches earlier than finalising the design. We began engaged on this piece round two years earlier than the gathering’s launch.
PK: I noticed the Contained in the Dream documentary in 2023—it confirmed how a lot iteration and planning goes into utilizing a single stone. Was this an identical course of?
LS: Each stone has its personal story. This one was totally different from the 93-carat cabochon you talked about. However sure, every gem requires its personal distinctive strategy.
PK: What’s your private philosophy in terms of sporting jewelry? I comply with you on Instagram and also you at all times put on it with such joyful abandon.
LS: I like taking part in with totally different collections—Tubogas, chains, colored gems. I’m at all times in one thing vibrant. I don’t wish to take issues too severely; jewelry needs to be playful and produce pleasure. Mixing and matching permits your character to shine by means of in a singular manner.
PK: Do you are taking the identical strategy with excessive jewelry?
LS: Sure, it’s the identical. I like sporting massive, stunning necklaces—however once I do, I maintain the earrings easy, even when their color doesn’t match the necklace!
PK: You typically cite India as one among your biggest sources of gem stones and inspiration. What retains drawing you again?
LS: India is a vital nation for me. I began travelling there greater than 40 years in the past. It’s not nearly inspiration—it’s additionally top-of-the-line gemstone markets on this planet. The slicing traditions are distinctive, and we collaborate carefully with cutters and tough stone sellers there. I grew up with that custom, and now we proceed to work carefully with them. It’s a long-standing, significant relationship.
PK: You’ve labored with so many gem stones over time. Are there any dream stones you’ve but to work with?
LS: My dream is to discover a ruby—a vibrant, emerald-cut ruby over 10 carats. That may be unimaginable.
PK: And at last, within the spirit of Polychroma and its Gallery of Wonders, what nonetheless brings you marvel?
LS: So many issues deliver me marvel—from jewels to nature to individuals. I’m a really curious individual and I like life. I discover marvel in seeing issues from totally different angles and views—I attempt to discover magnificence within the easiest of issues. It’s actually about our perspective: I like to take pleasure in life and see magnificence all over the place.
This interview has been edited and condensed for readability.
This text was first seen on Grace Singapore.
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