From 1540 to 1542, a long time earlier than European colonies had been established on the Atlantic aspect of the Americas, the Spanish conquistador Francisco Vázquez de Coronado led an expedition from Mexico, the place he was governor of New Galicia, north via what’s now Arizona, New Mexico, and throughout the plains of Texas, Oklahoma, and Kansas. The expedition’s seek for the fabled “Seven Cities of Gold” proved to be a failure, and Coronado returned to Mexico in shame.
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Coronado’s path via Arizona went due north via the jap a part of the state, climbing into the White Mountains which might be a part of the huge Colorado Plateau. His expedition adopted Native American footpaths, which later grew to become horse paths and wagon trails utilized by hunters, outlaws, pioneers, and prospectors. In the present day, the route is basically paved, and 120 miles of it are preserved because the Coronado Path Nationwide Scenic Byway, twisting and turning from the mining city of Clifton within the south to the high-desert city of Eagar within the north.
My trustworthy using companion Eric Birns and I arrived in Arizona from the east, having spent the earlier week using from California to Texas to witness the April 2024 complete photo voltaic eclipse, then exploring Texas’ Hill Nation and the Huge Bend area. We entered Arizona on State Route 78, winding our means via the southern finish of the Apache-Sitgreaves Nationwide Forest and cresting a craggy ridge at 6,102-foot Needle’s Eye, then descending 2,500 toes over the following 13 miles on a freshly paved dream coaster to Three Manner, the place U.S. Route 191 and State Routes 75 and 78 meet.
U.S. 191, which runs from the Mexican border to the Utah state line and consists of the Coronado Path, was as soon as designated U.S. Route 666 (the sixth spur off U.S. 66) and earned the nickname “Satan’s Freeway.” Pushback from spiritual people, to not point out a propensity for knuckleheads to steal the 666 freeway indicators, led officers to renumber it as 191 (yawn).
Eric and I overnighted in Safford at a cheapo Motel 6 inside strolling distance of JD’s Grill Home, the place we refreshed our road-weary outdated our bodies with frosty ales and high-calorie pub grub. Up and at ’em early the following day, fortified with awful espresso and off protein bars, we fired up our large Harley Glides and made our means again to U.S. 191.
We stopped to absorb the sights in Clifton, a copper mining city based within the 1870s that’s positioned on the confluence of the San Francisco River and Chase Creek. Clifton’s historic district is listed on the Nationwide Register of Historic Locations and consists of dozens of buildings constructed within the late 1800s to early 1900s.
Using north out of city, the street climbs via two sweeping hairpin turns and turnoffs for Morenci, Clifton’s sister metropolis, because it enters an industrial space. At a complicated junction, we mistakenly turned onto an entry street for an ore-processing facility.
After realizing we weren’t in Kansas anymore, we returned to the primary street and shortly entered the Morenci Mine, one of many largest open-pit copper mines in North America. Its scale boggles the thoughts. There’s an overlook off U.S. 191 the place you’ll be able to flip round 360 levels and never see a single little bit of earth that has not be graded, reshaped, dug, or moved. With reddish dust so far as the attention can see, it seems to be like a Mars terraforming undertaking out of a sci-fi film. Working across the clock, the mine processes 700,000 tons of rock per day and upwards of 840 million kilos of copper per yr.
We watched dozens of ore-hauling dump vehicles that, from our vantage level, regarded like Matchbox automobiles. In actuality, every Caterpillar 793D truck is 42 toes lengthy, 21 toes excessive (every tire is 11 toes in diameter and weighs over 8,000 lb), weighs 350,000 lb when empty, has a payload of 480,000 lb, and is powered by a 2,000-hp, 16-cylinder diesel.
We had been directly impressed by such an unlimited human achievement and horrified by the big scar on the Earth.
Using farther north, the mining hellscape was quickly changed by enchanted mountain surroundings with rugged pink rock formations and darkish inexperienced timber. The distinction was jarring, and the 1st-gear hairpins demanded our consideration. It was an ideal spring day, crisp and clear, nary a cloud blemishing the blue heavens.
It was a Saturday in mid-April, our eighth day on the street, and Eric and I had fallen into a snug rhythm. Although I had learn concerning the Coronado Path a number of instances within the pages of this journal, neither of us had ridden it earlier than. We had been like sponges, absorbing the sights, sensations, and sensational curves at a speedy price.
We entered a burn space and rode above the snow line as we approached 8,783-foot Rose Peak. Prepared for a break, we stopped alongside the roadside, and Eric opened up his touring snack bar: path combine, sweet, jerky, power drinks. We had been each in awe of the Coronado Path and the majestic surroundings. Eric is all the time beneficiant along with his caloric bounty, however what I recognize much more is an endearing high quality that he reveals at instances like these. Impressed by the second, Eric will recite poetry – Shakespeare, Keats, and others – and breathe much more life into the sweetness that surrounds us. Life and shared experiences are treasured, so why not elevate them even larger?
As U.S. 191 works its means north, its character continuously modifications, giving riders a full expertise. Tight curves, sweeping curves, grades that rise and fall, straight and flat sections that present reduction, vistas that go on for miles or are hemmed in by timber and rock partitions – it’s all right here.
Since leaving the Morenci Mine, we had seen no improvement alongside the Coronado Path. A couple of campgrounds and a few trailhead indicators, however that was it. Cell reception is blessedly nonexistent. Our subsequent cease was Hannagan Meadow, which was lined in a blanket of snow. The Hannagan Meadow Lodge, positioned 9,000 toes above sea stage in the course of the Blue Vary Primitive Space, is the one little bit of civilization for miles. Inbuilt 1926, it presents lodging within the lodge or cabins, and the restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. We had been simply passing via, however Arizona-based Contributing Editor Tim Kessel offers the lodge an enthusiastic endorsement.
The following 23 miles to Alpine had been a pleasing, gradual descent alongside sleek curves. From Alpine, you’ll be able to full a 211-mile Coronado Path loop by using east on U.S. Route 180 into New Mexico after which slithering like a rattlesnake south to SR-78 for the return to Arizona.
On the Deal with Store, we watered our horses and scuffed our boots on the shop’s worn wood flooring in quest of provisions. Should you’re an angler, that is your house. I purchased a sheet of Arizona Jack’s Tremendous Giga beef jerky, which had “AZJ” branded on it and tasted like peppered shoe leather-based.
The ultimate 27 miles of the Coronado Path from Alpine to Eagar is a mellow cruise via the nationwide forest with fewer curves and fewer dramatic surroundings, concluding our journey on the scenic byway. This can be a street I can’t think about ever rising bored with, particularly because it’s distant sufficient that it in all probability by no means sees a lot site visitors. And for the adventure-minded, there are unpaved forest roads off U.S. 191 that can take you to primitive campsites alongside the Blue and Black rivers.
We ended our lengthy using day greater than 200 miles west of Eagar in Clarkdale, on the dwelling of Tim Kessel and his pleasant spouse, Cheryl, having fun with a dram of sippin’ whiskey. Over dinner at an area restaurant, we shared tales of our travels, reliving the highlights another time. Experience to stay, stay to journey.
See all of Rider’s touring tales right here.
