Backed by lush orchestration, the opening credit of the 1969 John Wayne movie, True Gritreveal an attractive farmstead nestled in a inexperienced valley beneath craggy 10,000-plus-foot mountains. The scene is supposed to depict the Yellville, Arkansas, dwelling of essential character, Mattie Ross. However at the same time as a toddler watching the movie for the primary time, I knew that this location couldn’t presumably be Arkansas, the place the Charles Portis novel is ready and whose highest peaks are barely over 2,700 toes. Why, I puzzled, was it not filmed in a extra correct setting? (I ought to add that I’m typically accused of being overly literal.)
Now I do know.
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Whereas exploring Colorado’s San Juan Mountains in a 2024 Ural Gear-Up sidecar rig with my husband, Invoice, final summer time, we stumbled upon that farmstead alongside Final Greenback Highway, one of many state’s loveliest byways. This 20-mile passage between Ridgway and Telluride summits at 10,600 toes and presents a few of the most scenic views within the San Juans with out the necessity for a grueling, technical tussle to the highest or a wrestle for path area towards hordes of side-by-sides.
Why would they not movie films out right here?
The mountains, the streams, the golden aspens in fall, uncrowded and pristine. Who cares if it seems to be nothing like Arkansas? Ridgway and its surrounds offered beautiful areas for True Grit and different western films, and for us it was an ideal place to discover whereas we put the Ural by way of its paces, sometimes needing to summon some true grit of our personal. The bike was on mortgage from Overland Expo, their 2024 Final Overland Bike Construct, all decked out for journey with on-demand two-wheel drive, knobby tires, auxiliary lights, a winch, and even a fridge.
Over the course of our multiday journey, we might discover the Ural’s limits, uncover the place it excels, and have enjoyable within the course of. Getting accustomed to its steering was the primary problem. On a two-wheeled machine, you provoke the flip with a delicate push on the handlebar within the course you wish to go. It’s generally known as countersteering. However the three-wheeled Ural doesn’t lean. You should heave the handlebar on the heavy machine within the course you wish to go. In right-hand turns, the sidecar, connected to the proper aspect of the motorbike, tends to elevate. Taking corrective motion on this state of affairs could straighten the bike’s path in an undesirable means, akin to pointing it into site visitors. This may be averted however requires observe and deliberate effort and, oh sure, greater than a bit dedication.
We based mostly our expedition out of Lake Metropolis, Colorado, one of many cities originating as mining communities on this mineral-rich area, now a hotbed of tourism and off-roading. Heading north on State Freeway 149 on the Ural with me within the sidecar, Invoice and I left the pavement south of Blue Mesa Reservoir on a county street, bypassing a bridge closure on U.S. Route 50. Flowing alongside well-groomed dust and gravel by way of vast, sweeping turns, we discovered the mellow street good for our three-wheeled machine. We had initially deliberate to take it over Engineer Move however thought higher of it after a quick check on a path simply exterior Lake Metropolis. At 1,100 lb and 41 hp, the Ural is lower than ultimate for free, steep climbs like Engineer, even with the extra traction of two-wheel drive.
A brief stint westbound on U.S. 50 took us to Cimarron Highway and a flip again south into the Uncompahgre Nationwide Forest. We adopted the street’s twists and turns previous Silver Jack Reservoir and as much as Owl Creek Move at 10,114 toes. I took a flip as pilot and gave Invoice a spin within the sidecar. By this time Invoice had mastered the bike, expertly dealing with proper turns whereas preserving the sidecar totally on the bottom and us in the proper lane and drifting it into left turns like a dirtbike. My driving was not as easy, however the vast, evenly traveled roads offered a really perfect place to observe. Finally I gained extra confidence, however finally I used to be content material to remain within the sidecar and depart the driving to Invoice, who was having fun with it immensely.
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Simply northwest of Owl Creek Move, we handed Deb’s Meadow, the place True Grit’s climactic shootout was filmed. There on one aspect of the aspen-wrapped area with Chimney Rock within the distance, Ned Pepper, performed by Robert Duvall, provokes Rooster Cogburn, performed by John Wayne: “That’s daring discuss from a one-eyed fats man.” Enraged, Cogburn bows up and yells “Fill your hand you son of a b***h!” He grips his horse’s reins between his tooth and costs Pepper and his gang from the alternative aspect of the meadow, capturing with each palms on the villains.
Deb’s Meadow was named for actress Debbie Reynolds, who was concerned in filming different movement photos on the location, together with How the West Was Gained.
Finally, the unpaved street intersects U.S. Route 550, and from there we cruised into Ridgway for lunch. The neighborhood’s downtown offered the setting for a lot of True Grit’s filming, and we ate lunch on the True Grit Cafe, which is, not surprisingly, full of John Wayne memorabilia.
After lunch we set out for Final Greenback Highway, heading west on State Freeway 62. Twelve miles west of Ridgway, we left the pavement on a southbound flip, and in simply 2.5 miles we got here throughout Mattie Ross’ farm. The present proprietor restored the home, buildings, and corrals in 2018-2019 in honor of the movie’s fiftieth anniversary.
We continued past the Ross farmstead by way of ranchland for just a few miles, quickly coming throughout an indication urging warning when the street is moist and muddy, because it turns into very slick. “Good Tires Solely,” it learn. We figured our knobbies would qualify and went on, ascending by way of aspen, spruce, and fir to an overlook with a formation within the form of a ramp pointed skyward.
Invoice appeared poised to drive proper to the highest of the ramp, however I interrupted his progress at its base. “Let me out right here,” I stated and walked as much as meet him on the crest of the incline. Swooping up the ramp was not the form of adrenaline rush I craved, though in my rational thoughts I by no means actually believed he would go over the sting.
The view from the highest was breathtaking. We gazed down upon the valley, clouds rising between and across the surrounding peaks to each obscure and improve our view. I anticipated Brigadoon to look out of the luxurious inexperienced flanks of the hills at any second. The mist rose and dissipated, however no fabled Irish village materialized, so we moved on.
I actually caught my breath once I noticed Telluride, tucked into the rugged San Juan peaks within the hole beneath. There, smack dab in the course of city, an intensely saturated rainbow was firmly anchored within the pot of gold that’s the neighborhood of Telluride, recognized for its ski resort and its luxurious properties occupied by the wealthy and well-known. Almost as spectacular, Telluride Regional Airport sits at simply over 9,000 toes elevation and is likely one of the highest business airports in the US. Its 100-foot-wide runway is greater than 1.25 miles lengthy and appears oddly misplaced on this setting.
Intersecting State Freeway 145, we jumped again on the pavement and looped again to Ridgway, then traveled 10 miles south to Ouray, often called “Little Switzerland” for its tall, jagged peaks paying homage to the Swiss Alps. The Victorian structure of its downtown enhances the atmosphere. We luxuriated in Ouray’s hot-springs swimming pools for a calming finish to an energetic day and spent the night time on the Scorching Springs Inn, lulled to sleep by the speeding waters of the Uncompahgre River, which runs proper behind the lodge.
Earlier than heading again to base camp the subsequent day, we rode south out of Ouray, passing the trailhead for the Bear Creek Path, the place we had backpacked 18 years earlier than. We went as much as Pink Mountain Move, stopping to ogle the historic Idarado Homes, properties constructed for miners between 1910 and 1920 and now within the technique of restoration. And there, on the tight turns of U.S. 550 – the Million Greenback Freeway – Invoice perfected his sidecar flying method however with out me within the automobile, thank goodness. True grit solely goes to this point.
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Susan Dragoo is a author and photographer based mostly in Norman, Oklahoma, specializing in journey journey, alongside along with her husband, Invoice Dragoo, who based Dragoo Journey Rider Coaching (D.A.R.T.). Discover extra articles at SusanDragoo.com and BillDragoo.com.
